Rocks in the Písek Region

The rocks in the Písek region are located on both banks of the Otava river. The bigger part of the climbing terrains is situated upstream from Písek. Downstream, there are two small climbing sites. Further downstream, by the confluence of the Otava and Vltava rivers, unique 80 meter high cliffs used to be located; however, these disappeared under water after the Orlík dam was built.

The rocks in the Písek region are considered an optimal training terrain. Individual rock massifs are approx. 10 - 25 meters high. Májovka and Plátkův kout count among the longest. All the rocks in the region consist of paragneiss.

New climbing generation made its presence felt in the 1990's. Newly established climbing club Klíšťata cleaned most of the original routes and replaced the old pitons. This contributed to the renewed interest in this climbing area.

The Písek rocks consist of several main areas:

1. Stará strana (The Old Part)

Stará strana is located on the right bank of the river above Písek town and consists of several rock formations. Each of them bears a name which depicts its location or look. If you go from the bridge "Zátavský most", you will see following massifs on your right-hand side: Závěrečná (Concluding), Rozeklaná (Cloven), Zakletá (Enchanted), Opuštěná (Forlorn), Převislá (Overhanging), Začáteční (Initial), Trio (Trio), Vstupní (Entering). This is the largest location of the region, you can find approx. 100 routes of different level of difficulty here.

Access to the rocks: Follow the marked red trail from the town centre of Písek. You will pass the Jitex factory and come to restaurant "U Smetáka". From there, take a track following the right bank of the Opava river upstream. In three kilometers you will reach the rocks. This is easily accessible on bike. By car: You need to park your car by restaurant "U Smetáka". Another possibility is to park at the bridge "Zátavský most" and approach the rocks from the other direction.

2. Lesácká oblast (Woodsmann's Site)

It is situated on the left bank of the Otava river. It consists of three massifs - Májovka (The May Rock), Šedomodrá (Grey-Blue) and Čertovka (Devil's Rock).

Access to the rocks: From the suburbs "Sv. Václav" follow the left bank of the river Otava upstream. Májovka is located approx. 2 kilometers from the town, the other two massifs approx. 1 kilometer from that. By car: Park the car in the suburbs and follow the river upstream on foot.

3. Skály na Sekyrce (Rocks on Sekyrka)

Rocks on Sekyrka are located on the right bank of the river Otava below Písek.

Access to the rocks: There is a sewerage plant located on the left bank of Otava in the suburbs "Pražské předměstí". Jirásek bridge connects it with the right bank. Starting from the bridge, there is a marked green trail following the river downstream. After 15 minutes you will reach the rocks on Sekyrka. After approx. 2 more kilometers you get to Lipice. By car: Park it at the sewerage plant. Then follow the above description.

4. Lipice

The rocks were discovered by climbers from Písek in 1977. Shortly after that most of the local routes were created. The rocks are situated 2 km downstream from Písek on the right bank.

Access to the rocks: see 3.

There are additional climbing sites of local importance at Sulanov, at Stínadla and Smetiprach. These massifs offer interesting routes, but at the moment they are covered by vegetation.

Alltogether 181 routes of various level of difficulty are available in this area. Beginners as well as experienced climbers can find challenges matching their level of skills here.

Source: Climbing Guide PÍSECKÉ SKÁLY, HO Klíšťata Písek
More information at www.klistata.cz

File date: 17.4.2007